This unspoilt 6,600-hectare marine reserve includes the shores of the mountainous outcrop of land (Cape Prapat Agung) between Teluk Terima and Gilimanuk, and several bird islands in he bay near Gilimanuk, but is centered primarily on Pulau Menjangan and the excellent coral reefs surrounding it. Because it's a national park, both the number of boats and number of passengers visiting the island are controlled. A PHPA officer accompanies you on the boat; request one who speaks English.

Coral reefs are also found off the mainland. Infarct, just out in front of Labuhan Lalang, the p-off (gradual) is just five meters from the shore. Since these waters are protected, the snorkeling is superb. Go early in the morning when the water is clearest. Just drift along the coral wall; unbelievable. This dive site is particularly suited for beginner and intermediate divers.

The 175-hectare sanctuary island of Pulau Menjangan, off the northwest coast at the western entrance to Teluk Terima, received its name ('Deer island") from the wild Java deer that graze on its open Savannah. One of Bali's premier scuba diving and snorkeling locales, these reefs are frequented by species of fish of every size, shape, and color.

There's a great variety of underwater terrain, for the most part about two, meters below the surface extending 100-150 meters offshore, with no dangerous currents or wind-generated waves to contend with. The soft coral walls around the island are almost vertical and extend to a depth of 35-60 meters. The unusually rugged surface of the reef is pockmarked with caves, grottoes, fissures, and hollows, and covered with giant gorgonians and barrel sponges. At 25-50 meters the visibility is crystal clear.

The spectacular 120-meter dropoffs and caves off Pulau Menjangan's south side are only surpassed by the particularly fine species of coral off its northern shores. Menjangan's north-western end is the site of an old shipwreck, called the Anker, near a small pier and PHPA guardpost about 75 meters from shore. The 25-meter-long wreck lies on a sandy slope from seven meters to, 45 meters underwater. This is an excellent spot for a soft coral, caves, fish, and other reef life.

There's a break in the wall on the east side; this is where all the boats come in. Boats land in the shallows, then after gearing up on the beach, divers start exploring along the edge of the underwater wall only one to five meters down. You'll find the fish are quite cheeky as the guides feed them regularly with leftover rice. Boats usually visit the same sites day after day; permanent mooring buoys are in place to prevent anchor damage to the coral.

Guides allow sightseers to disembark so they can walk the short nature trail on the island and view the plantlife and wild deer; it starts near the jetty, leads east to a small shrine (15 minutes), and will take in all only about an hour. An onshore shelter for divers is on Pulau Menjangan's western end, but spending the night on the island isn't allowed. Much of the island is flat and very dry, the soil sandy with sparse vegetation, and some sections of the coast are fringed with mangroves. The only animals are a herd of barking deer, Java deer, the green-yellow mangrove white-eye, and few Bali starling.

Everyone in these waters should beware of tiny stinging jellyfish. You could end up with welts ail over your torso; jellyfish get stuck in one-piece bathing suits. Within an hour the painful welts are gone.

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Menjangan Island